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FRESHWATER INVERTEBRATES GASTROPODS These are often unintentionally introduced into aquariums, usually via plants containing eggs or small juveniles which are difficult to spot. Gastropods lay their eggs in a small, transparent, gelatinous mass. Ampullaria Some species of the apple snail can grow to 20 cm in the wild, but those found in an aquarium (belonging to the Ampullaria genus) do not exceed 7 cm. They eat vegetation and detritus, helping to restrict the development of algae, and like fairly hard water. Unlike many other gastropods, they are sexed and lay their eggs outside the water. Size: 6-7 cm. Ampullaria gigas Planorbis These are water snails with a flattened shell. Their orange-red body contains plenty of red globules to establish a high oxygen concentration, as they live in environments lacking in oxygen and breathe through their lungs, sometimes rising to the water surface. They graze on both short and filamentous green algae, whose growth they help to restrict. Size: 3-4 cm. Malayan snails They breathe through their branchiae and can retreat into their tapered shell, which closes with an operculum. They relish the tiny algae which encrust the decor; if they are well fed, they proliferate quickly. They are considered less effective than the planorbis, but as they bury themselves, they contribute to the equilibrium of the aquarium by turning over and aerating the bed. If you want to get rid of them, introduce a fish from the Tetradon genus, which will appreciate these mollusks. Several Malayan snail species belonging to the Melanoides genus (such as Melanoides tuberculata), native to South-East Asia, can be unintentionally introduced into tanks along with plants. Size: 1-2 cm. Planorbis sp. Physas Their spiraled shell is markedly less elongate than that of Malayan snails and they are also slightly bigger. They do not play an important role in the control of unwanted algae. As they reproduce rapidly, it is best not to introduce them into an aquarium. Size: 1-2 cm.
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INVERTEBRATES These days, more and more aquarists seem to be taking an interest in these animals. Ecologically speaking, invertebrates represent a natural complement to fish and plants; in visual terms, you can put on a spectacle of luminous beauty, particularly in sea water, using anemones and corals, to which can be added small fish, either lively or placid, but always brightly colored. There are also a few species of freshwater mollusks and crustaceans which are easy to keep in captivity, although they are little known and often overlooked.
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COMPATIBILITY BETWEEN INVERTEBRATES AND FRESHWATER FISH Invertebrates cannot cohabit with just any fish, for a number of reasons. The first is that they are liable to become prey for carnivorous fish. Coelenterates are completely incompatible with angelfish (Pomacanthids), for example. Secondly, some lively and active fish, of over 10-15 cm in length, can jostle and disturb invertebrates in the aquarium. Furthermore, the bigger and more active a fish, the more it excretes nitrogenous substances, leading to the accumulation of nitrates (NO3-), which are harmful to invertebrates. It is therefore best to avoid the presence of this type of fish. Too many fish produce the same result and the same degree of harm for invertebrates. Finally, there is another problem when a sick fish has to be treated, particularly with substances containing metals, which are toxic for most invertebrates. Remember that it is always preferable to nurse a fish in a hospital aquarium.
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“LIVE ROCKS” These are pieces of rock or fragments of dead coral (madreporites), that are bound together by calcareous rocks or various pieces of debris from invertebrates. They are sometimes removed from their natural setting and sold commercially. “Live rocks” harbor various organisms: bacteria, algae, sponges, small Coelenterates, and sometimes even small crustaceans, hidden in crevices. They can therefore be considered as living pieces of decor which contribute to the equilibrium of the aquarium. If, before sale, they have been suitably transported, cared for, and housed, then they are worth acquiring, despite their high price, as they permit the introduction of a variety of beneficial organisms into the aquarium, in the most “natural” way possible. Another option is to collect these types of rock yourself, off the shores of Florida, for example. Organisms capable of surviving in a tropical tank grow there in summer, when the water temperature is higher. There is always a chance, however, of introducing an undesirable organism or of finding that some residents of the “live rock” deteriorate and die, with an ensuing risk of pollution. It is therefore best to proceed with caution and isolate the rock in a quarantine aquarium.
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The small abdomen is tucked under the lower part of the body. Their pincers are particularly well developed. The larger specimens, which can be aggressive, must not be put into marine aquariums, as they can attack other invertebrates, and sometimes even fish. Pagurids These are better known as hermit crabs. Some tropical species can be found commercially, some of them bearing a small anemone on the gastropod shell which houses them. The shell is discarded when it becomes too small for the growing animal, so it is vital to provide bigger ones, as, unlike other crustaceans, a pagurid’s abdomen is not protected by a carapace that it makes itself. ECHINODERMS Sea urchins These are not very easy species to acclimatize. It is possible to keep one small specimen at most, which will often live away from the light. They are herbivores that sift the substrate looking for algae to eat. In among the prickles it is possible to see the articulated pedicellariae, which end either in a tiny pincer for trapping “Live rocks” are covered with many small organisms (worms, Coelenterates) which would be difficult to introduce into an aquarium in any other way. food or a sucker. The latter allows sea urchins to develop on rigid supports or the glass sides of the tank. Starfish These are not recommended for a marine invertebrate tank, as they attack other species, such as sponges. Starfish are in fact either carnivorous, gripping their prey with their long arms that emerge from a central disc, or microphages, in which case they feed on small organisms on the bed. The ophiuroids, sometimes called brittlestars and closely related to starfish, have articulated arms which allow them to move around quite quickly. These arms, like those of the starfish, can regenerate themselves if they break off.
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MOLLUSKS Few mollusks are found in aquariums, and they are not often available commercially. Among the gastropods, the cowries, well known to collectors of shells, can be kept in captivity. Some fish may nibble the “mantle”, the part of the animal’s body used outside the shell. Of course, in the event of any danger the animal retreats into its shell. Hobbyists enchanted by the beauty of this shell can put a specimen in a tank containing small Pacific fish (Gobiids, Blenniids, Grammids. Pseudochromis, for example). In the bivalve group there is the famous giant clam, which can sometimes grow up to a length of 1 m in the wild, where it feeds on vegetal plankton. Some smaller species can be acclimatized in an aquarium. However, these animals are only recommended for experienced hobbyists. CRUSTACEANS It is easy to keep a few species in a marine aquarium, to take advantage of their bright colors. These invertebrates are carnivorous: in an aquarium they should be fed on mussels, fish, or white meat. Hermit crabs are highly striking invertebrates which run around the aquarium in all directions to look for their food. They withdraw into their shell when frightened. Shrimps These rarely swim and prefer to get about by walking on the decor. If they are disturbed they abruptly recoil by tucking up their abdomen. Several specimens can live together, but it is vital to keep them away from carnivorous fish.
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Coelenterates Urticant (stinging) Coelenterates must be kept apart from the more delicate species: a safety margin of 10-15 cm is often recommended. The madreporites and anemones are among the most urticant, and they must not be put alongside a leather coral from the Sarcophyton genus, for example. Other alternatives for a Coelenterates tank are algae - whether encrusting or not - supported by live rocks, or even caulerpae. Their development must be controlled so that they do not end up smothering the Anthozoa. The introduction of certain fish is possible, even desirable, but there are cases of classic incompatibilities (see table, page 178). Specially designed artificial decor can be colonized quickly, depending on the organisms’ rate of growth and reproduction. This can sometimes make it difficult for even a practiced eye to spot the difference between artificial and natural decor in an aquarium which has been in operation for several months. WORMS Some species belonging to the Annelida, a group that includes the sea worms used as bait in fishing, live in a tube which they build themselves: these are known as The sedentary Annelida. The brightly colored branchial plume which sticks out of it traps oxygen, as well as the organisms which make up zooplankton. At the sign of any danger, or if the tank or its support are knocked, this branchial plume retreats into its tube. The feeding of Annelida in captivity is identical to that of Coelenterates. When you buy one, make sure that the branchial plume is functioning correctly and its tube is intact. It is best to buy a worm fixed to a piece of rock. Coelenterates can cohabit with algae - encrusting or otherwise - and even with small fish. In an invertebrate tank the development of algae must be restrained, so that they do not smother the Coelenterates (left, a Cerianthus).
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INVERTEBRATES The leather corals of the Sarcophyton genus will not tolerate being dose to Coelenterates highly prone to stinging. In their natural habitat, Coelenterates feed on animal plankton, but these are difficult to supply in an aquarium. example, is carrying out research in this field, using a 40 m3 tank containing several tons of corals, which are nurtured and bred. Until recently, raising corals on this scale in captivity was impossible, above all because of their very great sensitivity to nitrates (NO3-). Scientists solved this problem by allowing these nitrates to turn into nitrogen gas (N2), thanks to the anaerobic bacteria which survive at the bottom of the tank, where the oxygen levels are low. The nitrogen produced by the metabolism of these bacteria then passes into the atmosphere. This complicated technique is beyond the reach of most aquarists, however experienced they may be. Feeding Coelenterates By filtering the water, the Coelenterates trap small suspended particles, particularly the crustacean zooplankton. Collecting, keeping, and distributing plankton is not a task to be taken lightly, and it is best to look for other solutions. However, it must be made clear that commercial foods on the market provide little more than a stopgap. It is possible to use rotifers or freshly hatched brine shrimp nauplii, normally used as the main food for fish, but not everybody breeds these animals. There is another food which is available to all hobbyists, as it is inexpensive, easy to make, and can be frozen: it is usually called mussel choppy. Mussels are not only cheap but also rich in proteins, carbohydrates, mineral salts, and vitamins. Other possi- FOOD FOR SPONGES AND COELENTERATES: A RECIPE Ingredients: - mussels or cockles; - white fish, i.e. lean and free of lipids; - shelled shrimps in cans (optional). Cook the mollusks and fish. Put the shrimps in boiling water for 1-2 minutes. Remove the mollusks’ shells. Mix all the ingredients thoroughly. You can add a vitamin solution, flakes or granules of fish food, boiled spinach, or the special foods for invertebrates available commercially. If the paste is too thick after mixing, thin it with sea water. Pass the mixture through a sieve. What is left behind in the sieve can be distributed to anemones or small fish; this puree can also be frozen. Allow the puree to stand for several hours in the refrigerator, then discard any excess water. The resulting paste can be used straightaway for feeding, or can be frozen. It is best to put the food into the aquarium at night, 1 or 2 hours before switching off the lights. Switch off the filters, pumps, and aeration for a moment. Thaw the food, if necessary, and distribute the equivalent of one tablespoon of the prepared liquid for every 200 liters of water. Deposit the food above the invertebrates with a narrow, rigid tube. The filtration and aeration systems can be switched back on a few minutes afterwards.
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HOW TO SUPPLY CALCIUM TO A CORAL AQUARIUM Method 1 From the start, i.e. when you put the first water in, use commercial salts enriched in calcium. Then, add the same salts over the course of regular partial water changes, at the rate of 10% per week. Some commercial salts are specially designed for marine invertebrates. Method 2 Use commercial products specially prepared to increase calcium levels. Method 3 Place a calcareous element, such as calcareous rock, or crushed and washed oyster shells, in the filter, and this will gradually release calcium. However, this method will not give rise to any rapid or significant increase in calcium levels. Method 4 Prepare a solution of slaked lime, Ca (OH)2, available in aquarium stores, at a rate of 1.5 g/liter. Pour in 1 ml of this solution per liter of sea water. Proceed gradually, monitoring the pH constantly to ensure it does not rise above 8.5. Method 5 This is the most complicated, but also the most effective. Prepare two solutions: - one of dehydrated calcium chloride (CaCI2, 2H2O) at a rate of 15 g/liter, which will provide the calcium; - the other of sodium bicarbonate (NaHCO3), at a rate of 17 g/liter, which will provide the carbonates. Then calculate the difference between a carbonate hardness of 130 ppm (7.2 CH) and the one measured in the aquarium. Multiply the result by the net volume of the tank, and divide the result by 10. This will give the amount of each solution required, in milliliters, to pour into the aquarium. Example: for a tank with a net volume of 500 liters, with a carbonate hardness of 100 ppm (5.6 CH), the result is: Amount of each solution (in ml) = 500 x (130-100) + 10 = 1,500 ml. The following table gives you the required amount of each solution (in ml) for specific cases.
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The accumulation of calcareous coral skeletons gradually forms reefs, of which the most famous is the Great Barrier Reef, stretching north-eastward from south Australia for almost 2,000 km. It is the biggest structure of animal origin in the world! This ecosystem, one of the richest and most diverse in existence, is also fragile and constantly subject to attack. The last few decades have witnessed the destruction of some reefs, the coral being used to build houses, roads, and even airport runways! Obviously, aquarists have been accused of taking part in this pillage, which seems grossly exaggerated: the removal of corals from their natural habitat for the aquarium trade does occur, but it is negligible compared to other largescale extractions. Furthermore, some species are protected by law and never reach hobbyists’ tanks. Public marine aquariums can, on the contrary, make a contribution to the study of invertebrates. The aquarium of the Monaco Oceanographic Museum. WHEN MUST CALCIUM BE ADDED? Calcium is added when the concentrated measured is less than 400 mg/liter. There are tests on the market to measure the quantity of this parameter. Remember that the measurement of CH, in sea water, reveals the quantity of carbonates and bicarbonates. When this is less than 7 CH (128 ppm), it can be concluded that a lack of calcium carbonate is more than likely and steps should be taken to remedy this.
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